This little-visited part of Kenya is a highly worthwhile component of any trip, with Lake Victoria the undoubted jewel. Laid-back Kisumu - on the lake, but not quite the coast - has a very different feel to Nairobi and other cities. It is cosmopolitan, and it is a rare pleasure to take one's dinner overlooking the lake. For complete relaxation, head to islands such as Mfangano, and take a shot at fishing for Nile perch. Inland are the rolling tea fields of Kericho, or the Kakamega rainforest, home to amazing birdlife, including the elusive Blue Turaco.